As most starting homebrewers do, I first bottled my homebrew in saved 12-oz. longnecks. After a couple of batches below my belt I discovered bottling was a problem, and I actually wished a beer fridge with faucets at my newly-built bar. The hunt started for the proper beer fridge/kegerator. My spouse thought that having a fridge with a number of faucets by the door wouldn’t be a becoming addition to our household room, and I needed to agree regardless that we already had a 14 cu. ft. (0.24 cu. m) fridge within the basement we may modify. Nixing the beer fridge, I turned to the homebrew boards the place members highlighted their beer fridge/kegerator/keezer creations and mentioned professionals and cons.
I wished one thing that might combine into my bar and maintain at the least Three corny kegs. The keezer (kegerator + chest freezer) choice was the way in which I made a decision to go. Many keezer builds make the most of a picket collar with faucets mounted by the collar. Having faucets protruding the entrance of the keezer could be in the way in which so a keezer with a faucet tower was the subsequent logical step. Nevertheless, one massive con of fastened towers is having to drag the keezer away from the wall when lifting the lid as a result of the faucet tower will hit the wall. My answer was to construct a keezer with a hard and fast faucet tower and part within the rear with a detachable lid in entrance.
I discovered a 7.1-cu. ft. (0.2-cu. m) chest freezer on sale that might maintain three 5-gallon (19-L) corny kegs. If a future fourth keg is needed, a 2.5-gallon (9.5-L) keg will match on the inner compressor shelf. I had some 2-in. (5-cm) thick boards obtainable, milled from bushes taken down once we constructed our home, and I used these to make the highest. As an choice, you could possibly use any 2-in. (5-cm) extensive lumber or plywood sub-deck with a zinc sheeting or a tile floor could possibly be used. However one key with this construct is that the entrance part shouldn’t be too heavy. This part lifts off for entry to the within of the keezer. I connected an apron to the highest sections that retains the 2 prime sections aligned. I put in a pull-type latch on both sides of the apron sections to assist preserve the sections tight and flush. The entrance “lure door” part is simply connected to the fastened rear part by way of the apron with the 2 pull-type latches. The underside of every part is insulated with XPS foam board that I had mendacity round. The tower field is constituted of leftover cherry wooden with an oak entrance and rear. As an add-on, I slipped a bit of laborious copper pipe inside every pipe riser and ran one beer line by every. I insulated the insides of the tower field, and the primary pour doesn’t take too lengthy to run chilly.
I made my tower field large enough for a fourth faucet if I ever wished that choice, however I selected to make use of that area to mount my temperature controller. I take advantage of the 4th port in my CO2 manifold for purging kegs earlier than filling. Cheers!
Wooden for the highest (freezer measurement dependent)
¼-in. x 1-in. (6-mm x 2.5-cm) foam weatherstripping
½-in. (13-mm) XPS foam board
(2) pull-action latch clamps
1-in. x 3-in. (2.5-cm x 8-cm) wooden for apron
1-in. x 6-in. x 4-ft. (2.5-cm x 15-cm x 1.2-m) wooden for tower field
¼-in. x 6-in. x 3-ft. (6-mm x 15-cm x 91-cm) wooden for entrance and rear tower field covers
(2) 1¼-in. x 10-in. (3-cm x 25-cm) black iron pipe nipples
(4) 1¼-in. (3-cm) ground flanges
Temperature controller (STC-1000, UNI-STAT, or Inkbird)
Kegging setup (together with Three faucets and a 4-port manifold)
Miscellaneous screws, glue, electrical field, wiring